Enjoy this free preview of my subscription newsletter Shifting the Food Narrative. For stories, essays, and interviews that explore identity through food, please subscribe. I used to tell this story, and each time the moral conclusion would skitter off in a different direction before evaporating completely. But after Anthony Bourdain died—after Tony ended it in that hotel in Kaysersberg—the story seemed both smaller and more consequential, a droplet echoing larger and larger in my ambivalence.